“There’s no doubt in my mind that five to 10 years from now, you’ll have more specialised wholesale fish suppliers that don’t necessarily do mass market, but they do line-caught, very easily traceable fish.” ENRIC SALA, MARINE ECOLOGISTĮnric Sala is fighting for one of the most ambitious goals in the history of conservation: to turn almost two-thirds of the oceans into a marine reserve. “I would love to see the fishing industry at least branch out from the industrialisation that’s been going on into more artisanal, boutique types of suppliers,” Haatuft said. His latest goal is to persuade langoustine fishermen to sell him the octopuses that stray into their traps instead of killing them and throwing them back. “I think chefs are starting to get very conscious about where the fish is coming from, and they want to make sure they represent the restaurant well by having sustainable fish.” “I like using it because it’s a progressive way of farming fish,” said Haatuft, whose arms are emblazoned with tattoos dating to younger days in the punk rock scene. He also knows exactly where the halibut was raised: the Glitne farm on a fjord north of the city, which uses land-based tanks to avoid discharging fish waste into the sea. The snow-white flesh and its delicate texture are a favourite among customers at his Lysverket restaurant in the Norwegian port of Bergen, where Haatuft and fellow “Neo-Nordic” chefs are reimagining Scandinavian cuisine.īut Haatuft isn’t merely concerned with the flavour. Slapping a 13-pound halibut as long his arm on his restaurant counter, Christopher Haatuft slips the tip of his knife in near the gills, then runs the blade tailward to slice off a fillet. What can you do to try to lighten your effect on these animals? We talked to five people intimately involved with the sea: a Norwegian seafood chef with a locavore emphasis an explorer fighting to ban fishing in two-thirds of the world’s oceans an environmental scientist concerned about the global boom in aquaculture an entrepreneur training unemployed young people as “sea rangers” to protect marine reserves and a New England sushi chef who focuses on invasive species. A dish of halibut is served at Chef Christopher Haatuft's restaurant Lysverket in Bergen, Norway July 31, 2018.
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